How many days you actually need in Tokyo, plus which day trips — Nikko, Mount Fuji, Kamakura, Hakone — are worth the drive and how to fit them in without wasting a day on the road.
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The Nikko koyo season explained week by week — when autumn colour peaks on the Irohazaka switchbacks, Kegon Falls and Lake Chuzenji, and how to beat the traffic that comes with it.
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How to photograph Japan's snow monkeys at Jigokudani — timing, the walk in, the lens that actually works at the pool, and monkey etiquette, from a guide who goes every winter.
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